Patagonia Argentina and Chile - 2005
The trip had the following objectives: 1) To do the way of the Austral Carretera (Ruta 7) beetween the localities of Chile Chico and Puerto Montt, in Chile, project aborted in 2003, after sudden snowstorm in at the Argentina Patagonia; 2) To review the Region of the Lakes (Argentina and Chile) and to show it to my wife Lourdes, who did not followed with me in the trip I did there in 1998; 3) To have enough material for one 2º book to be published in the future.
Even considering the time were not appropriate for a trip to the intended region (April), therefore in the South of Chile it rains preety much and the temperatures drops brusquely, we decide to take the risk. In the last hour, a biker of Florianópolis, which we kept contact only trhought the Internet, decided to come with us to do the trip, even without an concrete objective in relation the same one. Just like a species of "target log book" telling details of the trip, objectifying that the considerations and details day-by-day to the end can contribute to friends whom eventually they intend to travel for the same region.
1° Day (02/04)
As programmed, the the way out, was with coffee and cheese bread, offered to the relatives and great number of friends, despite the ungrateful schedule (Saturday - 07:30 h).Friends
We left at the foreseen time , and just after Paulo Lopes city, distant only 40 km of Florianópolis, the rain cames as a flood. Were a good time to test some equipment, even that nor all had passed in the test. Despite the rain ,the trip was calm and we were able spend the night in Pelotas City. We had been travelling for 700 km in the day, and the only unexpected thing was to knock down the motorbike which were parked in the front of the hotel. Things of the life! I were very glad that nobody saw it !
From Pelotas, a really busy city, we follow in direction to the Chuí, the extreme point in the South of Brazil. In this passage we pass through one biological reserve called Tain, taking care to do not "run over" of some wild animal. The wind, at this region, is very strong, and it is almost a punishment. After the photos and doing the custom house procedure at Chuí, which we found it very easy , we left the border behind , driving trough a really good asphalt, and just after 20 minutes we decided to stop to have lunch.Chuí - The south point of Brazil
We had the intention to drive trough Punta Del Este, however , we follow for the auto road without seeing this beautiful e rich Uruguayan city by the sea coast. We arrived early in Montevideo and we stoped in the first hotel that we found, preventing to the town center. My wife, who get a cold just before we left Florianopolis, was much better after having some strongs winds blowing at her helmet.
We left Montevideo without knowing the town center of the Uruguay Capital's, therefore, the objective was to arrive most early possible at Colonia Del Sacramiento, where we would cross The Bacia do Prata by Buquebus until Buenos Aires. When we arrived at the Port, about 11:00 a.m, we were informed that it would.Between Montevidéo and Colonia - Uruguay
The price of the overflow between Colonia and Buenos Aires continues salty, U$ 70 for person. It is this or to more than walk 500 km to arrive in Buenos Aires, being given an immense return for Fray Bentos, in the Uruguay. In the Buenos Aires we catch Ruta 3 without much difficulty, there therefore we did not intend to spend the night. We were to sleep ahead in a small locality 50 km.
We follow in direction to Azul city, therefore we intended to pass in the "La Posta Del Viajero en Moto", of the friend Jorge, as much to compliment it how much to change the oil of the motion. We find in the "La Posta" the livened up Jorge and some foreigners. I changed the oil of the motion with certain difficulty, we photograph, we film, we give a t-shirt to ours friend Jorge and follow ahead.In Azul City (Argentina) - “La Posta Del Viajero em Moto”, with Jorge
The following passage of long straight lines and monotony without pair, only invites to speed up. In sunrise we arrive in Bahia Blanca City, catching first hotel that we find. We have supper, as always, with a good Argentine wine, therefore the following passage continues monotonous between this locality, Neuquén and Bariloche. The wind in this last passage was our favor. Also we do not face more rain beyond that one after the exit in Floripa.
Early in the morning we left Bahia Blanca heading to Neuquén. It is an extremely monotonous passage and with interminable straight lines.I have had already made this way in 1998, however, on the opposite direction. Near to Neuquén, late on the afternoon, I was scared by a dog, which crossed the road very quickly. If I had hit the animal, I could have lost the stability and, who knows what could happened to us failling in a busy road like this one. We stopped to spend the night in Arroyto, a small "pueblo" of Neuquén. At night in we all seat to talk about the trip, and we argue some aspects of the 5 days and we conclude that we understood the term "to travel by motorbike" in different way. By myself I had objectives sufficiently defined e, therefore, would become necessary an adaptation of this friend who "only was following us" or, then, would be more easy that each one to carry through its proper trip. Anyway, we would travell together on the next day until Bariloche.
In the morning, our friend decided that he would leave later in function of the cold weather and we wereset free to go ahead, because our objective was to arrive in Junin de Los Andes and San Martín de Los Andes before getting to Bariloche. We say goodbye ourselves, we film, we photograph, we desire good trip one for the other and left. We left about 9:00 a.m and the wind started to blow pretty strong. After Piedra Del Aguila, it increased even more. Suddenly, after some curves, appear majestical the first snowy peaks - and give wind to it! In direction the Junin de Los Andes the landscape was even beatifull than before, however the wind continued punishing us cruelly. With certainty it was the wind stronger than we face so far in these trips and, if we were with a lighter motorbike, in some occasions, certainly we would have been launched off the road. Junin de Los Andes, as we imagined, is a very beautiful and nice place . We had lunch there, it was about 15:00 p.m , and then we head to San Martin de Los Andes, only 45 km ahead, a place that always I wanted to know, even more after I watched the movie and knowing that it was part of the trip that Che Guevara carried through by motorbike in the decade of 50, as its Book and the movie "Diarios de Motocicleta". We were installed in a pleasant hotel, so we decide to walk around to better feel the climate of this beautiful City in the middle of the Mountain range of Andes.
We left San Martin de Los Andes about 9:00 a.m and them, we head to La Village Angostura to make the trip of the 7 Lakes. To do this way, we face 50km of grave , and 2 days before it had have snowed at the region, in some low points it had mud enough have a accident.At some points, my wife Lurdinha, preferred to go by foot. It was dirt all over the motorbike and the clothes, however , the motorbike did not knock the floor. This passage, (100 km) is very beautiful. La village Angostura, a true paradise !Ville La Angostura - Argentina
From Village Angostura, we follow bordering the Nauel Huapi until BarilocheNauel Huapi Lake
At this time, with the snowy peaks sufficient and the trees in yellowish tones, the landscape is a true spectacle. We pass direct for Bariloche, therefore our objective one was El Bolson. Before this locality small a scare: a rubber support was freed that is in the superior part of the back scale, between this and the chain. With this the same it was engolido by the nut come to deviate the chain. We stop immediately and the business was to put the hand in the grease and for the chain in its had place. All fact, we arrive in El Boson for returns of the 17:00 hours.chain with problem
Yesterday, after we had supper in a restaurant in El Bolson, where we met the great-granddaughter of the Sheriff Martin Sheffield, the man, who at the beginning of the century came to the Patagônia to search the famous American outlaw Butch Cassidy, we return to the hotel and, and we also met, two guys from Rio Grande do Sul, we were told by them that they had just passed through the Austral Carretera by car, also, they told us that it has been raining a lot there. Considering still: a) the chain of the motorbike that had escaped a little before El Bolson; b) the concern of the wife in travelling in the rípio (gravel stone) with rain (trauma of the tumbles in 2003 in Ruta 40), what it could not be disrespected; c) information of the local travel agency telling us that was occurring irregularities of the overflows between El Chalten and Chiloé (as a matter of fact of the precocious beginning of rains and cold/snow in the Region); We understood that it was not the moment to know the Carretera Austral, reason for which we modify the script and the name of the project that started as "Patagônia Argentina/Chile", because all our trips have a name. Then, we return to El Bolson heading to Bariloche and, after 60 km, we could notice the rightness of the decision: the chain escaped again, what, certainly, it would leave us in sufficiently complicated situation if we were more to the South, and in Bariloche has greaters resources. We tryed to put the cahin back to it's place, and we notify that it was sufficiently kneaded. When arriving in Bariloche we look for a "taller" to buy a new chain and, thanks to God, we had success. For that we could observe, in the first one escaped the chain it was out of alignment, what it caused as the second problem, because it did not appear to be used. Intense cold, mainly in the border between Argentina and Chile, with much snow by the edges of the road.Snow in the frontier Argentina - Chile
We arrive in Osorno (Chile) and made the first telephonic contact with our Chilean friends which in the last year had been in the TOCA
We spent the night in Osorno with the intention to know the beauties of the Region, as Puerto Poles, Osorno volcano, Puerto Montt, etc., however, for our bad luck, the day was rainy, without possibility of no sight to the beauties of this region. We thought that the best to do was to go in direction of Temuco, more specifically to the small locality of Galvarino, ahead 60 km, where our friend Carlos lives. We were so sorry that this passage between Osorno and Temuco, of so many beauties, to be total "gray" due to the rain, or either, we pass without seeing nothing not to be the auto track and its constant tolls. In the road junction of the city, it had a person waiting for us. We arrive in Galvarino and we were wellcomed of affectionate form by Carlos and some friends of him, wonderful people who in make them to have certainty of that the motociclismo really opens doors. To have an idea, it was more than 15:00 p.m and they were still waiting us to have lunch. As a matetr of fact, in Chile , April is the most rainy month.With friend Carlos, in Galvarino City (Chile)
After a evening with a lot of wine and talk, we also had time to dry the clothes, we left Galvarino heading to Santiago, with a strong fog. After some kilômetros we took the auto road and there was nothing more than just asphalt. All the beautiful landscapes had been left behind us, therefore, above of Temuco it does not have very much to see. We drove 700 km until Santiago, where our good friend, Juan Arenas, was waiting for us on the immediacy of the Chilean Capital. Impressive the affection of these friends who, together with other bikers were waiting for us with much wine and a very succulent "parrilla".(barbecue) We change gentilities, t-shirts, adhesives, photos, etc., and, dizzy because of the wine, we went to rest.
Day of rest in Santiago, using the advantage of the hospitality of the friend Juan. In the morning we change the oil of the motorbike for the second time (already we had 5,000 km more than the usual) and we prepared ourselves for a ride to the coast of the Pacific, specifically to Puerto San Antonio, to know it and also to appreciate a typical plate called "Paila Marina", indicated by our friend. It is a kind of a special soup with great variety of clams from the Pacific Ocean. Special thing! Our Host Friend, Juan, made us remenber another friend in Florianopolis, he also has the same stature and an enormous motorbike, witty and extremely glad, always making jokes with everybody. Next to the restaurant, the edges of the port, a great amount of marine wolves. I intended to take avery close photo of them, however I was not well accepted for one of them, and according to Juan, he was worried about me after I had eat the famous dish.On the afternoon we drove back to Santiago.Sea Wolf in Puerto San Antonio - Chile
We leaving Santiago, guided for the friend Juan and heading in direction the Los Andes and, from there, we went up the Mountain range in the Chile/Argentina direction. We took a lot of photograph from the "caracoles", of this time, we knew Puente Del Inca - an incredible place !Caracoles Puente Del Inca
A stop in Mendoza would be interesting, therefore, it is one of the most beautiful Argentine cities, however it was very early and we arrive in San Luis, 250 km ahead this city.
What can I say about the passage by San Luis the Fé Saint, in Argentina? We just drove all way long. I have to say, in good roads, much better than the ones we have in Brazil. A thing that bothers all travellers in some parts of Argentina is to cross enormous passages without nothing attractive to see, most of the main points of attraction are, almost always, on the extremities.Long roads - Argentina 14º Day
We left Santa Fé (Argentina) e, in a way that looks like "Iron Butt", we intended to make 900 km until Ijuí, in the Rio Grande do Sul. Again, a monotonous way without nothing attractive to see. What it is not news in the Province of Entre Rios is the fact of Policia Camiñera to continue irreducible in the anxiety to search any irregularity in the documentation. At this time we were preparred. We had a Safe Automobile insurance , copy of the Argentina Legislation of Trasnsit of cars, for the case to demand "mata -fuego"(extinguishes of fire). Thanks to God that Rio Grande do Sul has improved asphalt in the passage between Uruguaiana and Santo Ângelo. Just before Sao luiz Gonzaga we met a biker in a Kawasaki 1500 that his motorbike has went dead. Without having not very much to help, we talked for a while, suddenly this guy insisted of that we were going in the opposite direction. It beat that doubt (it will be that we leave the last gas station in contrary direction), them we stopped another biker, \which confirm that we were on the right directiob, the guy was complete lost. The only thing that we could made was to pass in the first locality and ask for a mechanic to go to help him, we needed to arrive in Ijuí before the evening, what, in function of this, was impossible.
15º Day (16/04)
We left Ijuí at about 8:00a.m hours, intending to arrive at home about 16:00 p.m. However, a accident with truck nera to lagoa vermelha made us to spend a hour on the road.Accurately at the 17 hours, we arrive at our destination, where our friends and relatives had been waiting for us.
We cannot consider this trip as an adventure, only a trip of vacation in a motorbike (as the way we like), I resell places, knowing others that in previous trips for the Region we did not,meeting again and making new friends,etc. The Austral Carretera is for a next trip,on the cold and rainny weather it is not worth to transform leisure in suffering, mainly for my wife which was scarried with rípio (grove stone road), mud, cold and rain in Ruta 40 in 2003. One of the high points of the trip was to review our friend Jorge, Blue, who keeps the celebrity place of "La Posta Dei Viajero em Moto" and to meet again our Chilean friends, Carlos in Galvarino (next to Temuco) and Juan and Alyro, in Santiago. These last ones, had made a homaged with a beautiful board, thing that made me wonder."Souvenir" from ours friends Juan e Alyro – Santiago (Chile)
It was only 8,200 km, without stress, except the normal monotony at the Pampas in Argentina, where it does not have nothing to see, except interminable straight lines with much wind. We judge adequate to exactly weave some considerações on our trips, that extremely "light" as this, objectifying to give subsidy, some of which the excessively accompanying ones we only confirm what already we know and that they consist in the too much stories of this Site or in the Book "Leaving the Common Place", of our authorship. When we cite values, we are considering the economic situation of the involved Countries in the current date, as well as the trip of a couple on a motion:
•The prices in Argentina, in a general way, are minors who in Brazil, also the gasoline that costs, in average, R$ 1,00 unless ours; ?No Chile everything is well more expensive, except the gasoline that, also, cost, in average, U$ 1,00, as ours; ?No paid Chile motion toll, in Argentina, in a general way, not;
•Ours daily expenses had been, in average of U$ 70, considering 2 normal meals, spend the night in medium hotels, gasoline and all more, also unexpected; to travell just the couple is much more pleasant, with full freedom of action. To travel with other people must be something always very well argued, mainly individual details and crazes that, in a long trip, make all the difference; The plans of a trip must be flexible. To evaluate it and to modify it, will be the case, in order to take care of the interests of the other part (in my case , my wife), always will be a good idea; Equipment for cold or rain are "good", or "bad", depends how much you will need to use or nou ussing them. Half term does not exist;
•Argentines and Chileans are very kind with Brazilians. When we say that we live in Florianópolis, then, are fascinated, therefore, almost all already had heard to speak or same they know the Santa Catarina Capital (I think that almost all Argentine already had came to Florianopolis). This "legend" that, mainly Argentine,does not like Brazilian is folklore and, I believes, that in function of the fanatism, of both, for soccer;
•A a good revision in the motorbike depends the success on a trip;
•Sometimes, most of tiem acctualy, it is not easy to find the appropriate oil for the motorbike;
•To travell to this region in April, is not impossible and the landscapes are beautifull (without rain), however you must have the adequate equipment.
Cícero & Lourdes
Translate by Chayenne Michelly