Viagem pela Europa
Viagem pela Europa
Viagem pela Europa
Viagem pela Europa
Viagem pela Europa


Ushuaia – A Trip Of Superlatives

As we make in all the annual vacations, normally in April, my wife and I we plan and we try to consolidate a great trip of motorbike, one of the things that more we like to do.

Land of the Fire National Park Land of the Fire National Park

In April of 2002 we plan and we carry through a trip until Macchu-Picchu and Atacama Desert, by Acre State, totalizing 10,000 km, which motivated me, a afterward, to publish the book "Leaving the Common Place”.

For April of 2003, we are planning to travel until Ushuaia, by the Austral Road, with the same motorbike of the previous trip, a Honda Sahara, whose passage would totalize about 13.000 km, allowing appreciating the outstanding landscape of the Patagonia, to visit national parks as the Perito Moreno Glacier, Towers Del Paine and Lapataia Bay, to cross the Strait of Magellan, and to review the region of the lakes in Chile and volcanoes Villarica and Osorno, beyond the Mountain range of Andes in diverse points.

The Symbol of the Project The Symbol of the Project

Considering this plan, we would make 10,500 on paved roads and approximately 2.500 km on gravel roads (re-covered from round small stones, that vary of the size of a ball of marble game to a tennis ball); Beyond this difficulty (gravel roads), in the Patagonia we would face strong winds, abrupt climatic variations and hardly any conditions of supplying.

As it is natural, the first planning of a trip normally goes beyond the allowed one. After the first revision, we decide not remaking covered ways already, in the case, to go for Santiago, or either, would leave to review the Region of the Lakes, however we would reduce the distance in about 2.500 km.

We left on 5 of April in direction São Borja City (Rio Grande do Sul State), where we would cross the border Brazil - Argentina, however we opt to crossing the border Soother, in the Uruguaiana City.

Until here, we were just fine, except for the fact of that in this region of Argentina; Patrol Police is common to bother the Brazilian motorcyclists. This already is a tradition. They try in a lot of ways to get some money. And that time was not different, besides we do have the automobile insurance and all documentation; them had demanded "mata-fuego" (fire extinguisher). As we were not on the mood to negotiate the value of the fine, we decide to pay to the equivalent to U$ 30 and keep on with our journey. Evidently, if he was not "mata-fuego", it would be the case to have a first-aid and thus for ahead.

Soon after the border we decide to invert the programmed passage, following to the South of the Continent for the Coast, returning for the Rote 40 (Argentina) and Austral Rote (Chile). This option was motivated by the fact to arrive at the Land of the Fire was a priority and Rote 3, contouring the Coast, almost total paved, it offers slight risks. Later we could confirm that it was the right decision.

After Buenos Aires, on Azul City, we went to visit " La Posta Del Viajero En Moto ", place kept by Jorge, very respected and prized by the traveling motorcyclists of the whole world. The place offers conditions of room without cost, besides appreciating the register of that for they had passed there.

Despite the strong cold for the autumn, after 5,200 km we were in Ushuaia, a place of rare beauty, where the sun (just at this time in the year) appears at 08:30 and sets at 17:30h, giving a special coloring to the city reflected in the Beagle Channel, with its snowy peaks on the background.

From Ushuaia, we made a visit to the small islands of Beagle Channel, full of marine wolves, penguins and birds of assorted species.

Ushuaia - general sight from the canal of Beagle Ushuaia - general sight from the canal of Beagle Ushuaia - Marine wolves Ushuaia - Marine wolves

The Lapataia Bay, distant only 30 km of Ushuaia is something without equal. Peaceful Waters, beauties snowy peaks of the Mountain range, ways among the typical vegetation in yellowish tones, a true paradise!

National Park - Lourdes in a classic photo National Park - Lourdes in a classic photo

After we saw all the beauties of Ushuaia and its environs, we initiate the homecoming, which, after the locality of San Sebastian, border of Argentina – Chile, we would head to Puerto Natales, from there, to cross again the border Chile - Argentina and than initiate the unpleasant Rote 40, with 700 km in really bad conditions. To face this road was a real challenge, however the snow did not allow it. We made only the half of this passage (400 km), consequently the road was smooth as soap and, after 3 tumbles, where we seriously damage the streamlining of the brave Sahara NX 350, tearing our leather clothes and suffering small excoriations, we judge adequate to ask for hitchhiking, also for the motorbike, therefore it would be very unsafely.

Aspect of the mud (clay) Aspect of the mud (clay) The motorcycle being carried after the third fall The motorcycle being carried after the third fall

After 20 days traveling, facing very cold and much wind; however everything compensated by the beautiful images of the Patagonia. We made 7,000 km more than we had plan, almost 1,000 in gravel roads. As a matter of fact, only the passage of the Austral Rote (in Chile) effectively was not materialized. However, 80% of the planned passage were carried through and more than 80% of that, really were interested we seen. So, our decision to follow for the Coast and to return for the side of the Mountain range, therefore if we had faced snow in the gone one, hardly we would arrive at the final objective: Ushuaia. In fact, to travel in the autumn to such an inospitable region, with temperatures that goes less at 0º or, is not adjusted. However the landscape at this time is more magnificence. To cross the Strait of Magellan, to visit cities as Punta Arenas (Chile) or El Calafate (Argentina) and to visit The Perito Moreno Glacier, with glaciers of more than 60 meters of height.

Motorcycle being supplied Motorcycle being supplied The Perito Moreno Glacier The Perito Moreno Glacier

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